Articles / Advice

Solid oak flooring or engineered oak?
Is there another option?

 

How to keep your flooring looking good

Faced with a sometimes bewildering choice of products, the consumer can be confused trying to select his flooring. The D.I.Y. giants try to channel him towards laminate flooring which pretends to look like wood but isn’t wood. Professional advice can be obtained from a specialist but saw-mill or a flooring workshop’s choice will be limited and a town centre flooring shop, which will have a large choice but will be undoubtedly more expensive. The cheapest prices will be found on Internet where the choice is huge.   For your own comfort as much as for your flooring’s, the right climatic conditions are essential. A temperature of around 20°C and a relative humidity of around 50% is ideal for your flooring. All wood is hygroscopic – it will absorb moisture from the surrounding air. If the air is too humid, it can absorb enough to increase its width slightly. Conversely, if the
 
 

How to lay Pool Copings

   
   

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How to lay Pool Copings

Here’s a short video showing natural stone pool copings and pavings being laid on a pool renovation.
Here the mason spreads on a PVA adhesive on the pool masonry.
He then lays a bed of mortar directly on this and lays the pool copings working to his string lines.
The last stone is measured and cut to size allowing 1cm each side for the joint.
These natural riven faced copings have a bull nose on the pool side and a quarter rounded edge on the paving side to soften the transition to the paving.
Sometimes, paving is laid under the pool copings so this softened edge is important.
These pool copings are chocolate colour to match the local stone but we also import a grey and a cream colour.
Oakwood Import stock and deliver all over France.
See our website for more info www.oakwood-import.com.
Bed in the cut stone and check its level with the stones either side.
In fact, the job starts with laying the 4 internal corner stones and a straight stone either side.
Then mason’s lines are set up and tensioned.
One for line, along the bull nose edge and one for level on the top of the stone.
If the pool has a roman end or square steps, use the string line to lay the roman end starter stones or the external corner stones (as here) working to the lines.
The mix should be sand and cement tile adhesive in about 3 to 1 ratio.
You can add some PVA adhesive to the mix.
Keep mortar away from the edge of the pool to avoid spillage.
Lay the stones leaving 1cm gaps for the joint.
For the paving, lay a sand and cement screed to a slight fall away from the pool (about 2cm in 1m).
The paving is calibrated to 20mm thick.
A small cut out may be necessary for the skimmer lids.
The pavings are laid on a thin bed of mortar on top of the dry screed and tapped into place with a rubber mallet.
After the paving is laid, the joints will need to be filled.